L Ami Jean (27 rue Malar, 7th) — generous cooking and the famous giant rice pudding.
Spotting a real bistro (avoiding traps).
Good signs: a handwritten daily blackboard, a short menu, a simple room, a French-only menu. Bad signs: photos of dishes, a long multilingual menu, a tout on the pavement, an ultra-touristy spot.
Prices, no surprises.
Lunch set menu (starter + main, or main + dessert): €18–25, the best value.
Dish of the day: fresh and smart.
A pichet of house wine (25 or 50 cl): far cheaper than a bottle.
The codes to know.
Service hours: lunch 12–2pm, dinner about 7:30–10pm. Outside those, the kitchen is closed — brasseries fill the gap.
Tap water is free: "une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plaît".